search  current discussion  categories  forms - plates 

warped plates

updated tue 30 apr 96

 

FMIRANDA@alpha.CC.OBERLIN.EDU on fri 26 apr 96

I need professional help here, ok. I admit it.
I'm trying to make slab plates out of a new cone 6 white stoneware body
(miller). I cut a square, invert it over a hump, then when it is dry
enough to keep it's shape I turn it over and with a sharp knife cut several
simple scroll shapes on the corners and work with them, pushing up and out
of the plate. I've done it on earthenware, the plates all come out without
much warping. Is this not possible to do on stoneware because of the
memory? My stoneware plates look like potato chips. I believe the clay is
of even thickness, am I inverting it too soon (I don;t let it get too dry
because then I can't work with it any more).
I think I also made the mistake of bisque firing them rim to rim, since
some were painted with underglazes and I have had trouble with the ug
transferring onto the back of the plate above.Maybe the painted plates have to b
bisqued singly ?
Any help or suggestions gratefully accepted.....
TIA, Sharon (it's winter again in Ohio)

Jack Phillips on sat 27 apr 96

>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I need professional help here, ok. I admit it.
>I'm trying to make slab plates out of a new cone 6 white stoneware body

Sharon,
I suggest using a clay with low shrinkage, I use a ^10 white
sculpture clay for my 18" platters.


> am I inverting it too soon (I don;t let it get too dry
>because then I can't work with it any more).

See if you can do your work on it in such a way that you can turn it
back over to dry the rest of the way.

>I think I also made the mistake of bisque firing them rim to rim, since
>some were painted with underglazes and I have had trouble with the ug
>transferring onto the back of the plate above.Maybe the painted plates have
to b
>bisqued singly ?

I don't think you will get away with letting the under glaze from
on plate touch the other . Can you leave the rim without under glaze?
May be worth a try..
Jack Phillips
STONART Ceramic art
Portland, Oregon

ELCAB@delphi.com on sun 28 apr 96

For the firing,and to avoid rim to rim stacking, try
platesetters..the expense pays for itself if you do ant bolume
of plates..Elca Branman elcab@delphi.com

jetharrs@pacific.telebyte.net on sun 28 apr 96

Sharon:
>> am I inverting it too soon (I don;t let it get too dry
>>because then I can't work with it any more).
>
Jack:
>See if you can do your work on it in such a way that you can turn it
>back over to dry the rest of the way.

I have several large squares of masonite that I use to flip pieces. Lots
of times I lift things from the wheel onto them first. Then you can put
another piece of masonite on top, making a sandwich, and turn the whole
thing over.

I do this with pieces I want to lift from the slab roller too--either by
sliding the masonite under tha canvas that a slab is laying on, or by
putting it on top, picking up the canvas edges and holding onto both ends,
flip the clay. You can also slide the masonite under, place another piece
over the clay, and turn it that way.

Jo Ann Stevens on mon 29 apr 96

>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Sharon:
>>> am I inverting it too soon (I don;t let it get too dry
>>>because then I can't work with it any more).
>>
>Jack:
>>See if you can do your work on it in such a way that you can turn it
>>back over to dry the rest of the way.
>
>I have several large squares of masonite that I use to flip pieces. Lots
>of times I lift things from the wheel onto them first. Then you can put
>another piece of masonite on top, making a sandwich, and turn the whole
>thing over.
>
>I do this with pieces I want to lift from the slab roller too--either by
>sliding the masonite under tha canvas that a slab is laying on, or by
>putting it on top, picking up the canvas edges and holding onto both ends,
>flip the clay. You can also slide the masonite under, place another piece
>over the clay, and turn it that way.
>
From Jo Ann:

I picked up a box of 12"x 12" ceiling tile at garage sale--great for
flipping and moving things around and drying on.

**************************************************
* *
* Too much of a good thing *
* can be wonderful! *
* *
**************************************************

jstevens@niagara.com

Marvin Bartel on mon 29 apr 96

At 12:57 PM 4/27/96 EDT, you wrote:
>>I need professional help here, ok. I admit it.
>>I'm trying to make slab plates out of a new cone 6 white stoneware body
>> am I inverting it too soon (I don;t let it get too dry
>>because then I can't work with it any more).

Sharon,
When I invert something that is still a bit soft, I use pieces of plastic
foam sheeting and soft foam blocks (if needed) cut to support the clay and
avoid distorting the forms. Cut the foam just small enough so the rims can
hang over the edges when it is upside down. Lay the foam pieces on the
piece, then place a light weight sheet of rigid styrofoam over this to flip
it over. I have something flat under the piece also.

>>I think I also made the mistake of bisque firing them rim to rim, since
>>some were painted with underglazes and I have had trouble with the ug
>>transferring onto the back of the plate above. Maybe the painted plates
have to bisqued singly ?

When I have lots of plates to bisque I place them all right side up with
spacers between them. I have bisque fired a quantity of small solid
reusable cones a bit less than a half inch wide at the base and less than a
half inch high. Place the first plate on the shelf on three small supports
that look like clay pennies (in a triangular pattern). On top of this plate
put three cones at the exact spots where the penny shapes support the first
plate. Set the second plate on the points of these three cones. Continue
the stack always placing the three cones at the exact same spots as the ones
below (to avoid stressing the plates). For thrown plates the foot of the
plate is placed on the three penny shapes and on the cones above. The cones
have slightly flatened tips.

This system saves kiln space and fuel. It does not stress and crack the
plates, and it allows heat to circulate between the plates.




++++++++++++++
Marvin Bartel, Art Dept
Goshen College, Goshen, IN 46526
marvinpb@goshen.edu
http://www:goshen.edu
++++++++++++++
.. . . on being influenced by a good idea . .
"Don't borrow it. Steal it. Make it your own."
from poet, Nick Lindsay