JoleeRene on tue 10 sep 96
I would swear I sent this question out but can't find it listed - I'm
sorry if this is a repeat -
I would like to paint on bisqued ware, using commercial underglazes, and
obtain a blended effect (watercolor) but the ware soaks up the water so
fast that I get sharp, hard edges instead. I have tried soaking the piece
but then get a messy edge.
Does anyone know of a way to prevent the underglaze from being so quickly
absorbed into the clay body? Thanks
Joanna deFelice on wed 11 sep 96
jolee, i don't know that i can be much help, but i do most of my work with
low fire underglazes, a lot of it to achieve the 'watercolor' look. i've
never had a problem with this, but if you are using the underglazes full
strength, that could be the problem. you might consider adding some water
to the underglaze before painting it on the bisqueware (just add it to some
of the underglaze not the whole batch and not so much that all you have is
a wash, although i do that to when that is the effect i want), and use
Chinese brushes. the other option is to use underglaze crayons, smudge them
a bit with your finger and/or use the Chinese brush to add some water to
make the color smear a little.
let me know how it goes, perhaps there are other things (maybe the brand of
underglaze you are using-or are you maybe making your own?).
good luck! joanna
Dianna Mammone on wed 11 sep 96
At 06:05 PM 9/10/96 EDT, you wrote:
>I would swear I sent this question out but can't find it listed - I'm
>sorry if this is a repeat -
>I would like to paint on bisqued ware, using commercial underglazes, and
>obtain a blended effect (watercolor) but the ware soaks up the water so
>fast that I get sharp, hard edges instead. I have tried soaking the piece
>but then get a messy edge.
>Does anyone know of a way to prevent the underglaze from being so quickly
>absorbed into the clay body? Thanks
I have 12 years experience. Three things to try; a tighter clay body, a
higher bisque temp (03), and use underglaze medium or gum arabic instead of
water for flow. They should be available at your local supplier. You could
also try painting underglaze on top of your glaze, like majolica.
Dianna Mammone, Art & Soul Studio
Sandra Dwiggins on wed 11 sep 96
In the workshop I took with Ron Meyers this year, he showed his
technique for getting wonderful watercolor effects using pure Mason
stains. As a sort of "canvas" for the colors, he puts on a white slip first
and then paints on the slip surface, with watered down mason stains.
The stains soak in, but if the slip is still slightly wet, you can get a very
nice water color effect. The slip acts very much like water color paper,
in that once you've made a stroke it's almost impossible to redo, without
changing the whole thing so if you make a mistake... .It's like doing
majolica, and the results can be just as watercolor-y. Ron fires at low
temp so that the colors stay pretty true, and he also puts a transparent
glaze over the pot for the final firing. I did several redware pieces at the
workshop and was amazed at the freedom this technique gives.
However, I did try this at higher temp, ^6, and found that most of the
stains in the more interesting colors burn out. So, it works in a range of
temperatures but you will have to test out what works for you. Also, I
did my painting on greenware, not on bisque. You would probably get
less absorption if you paint on greenware. This technique works for
both stains and commercial underglazes.
If you ever get a chance to take a workshop with Ron--do it! You'll be
glad you did!
Sandy in Maryland
Nan Dufresne on fri 13 sep 96
Recently I have been testing and comparing the new underglazes made
especially for bisque...Mayco's" Stroke and Coat",Duncan's "Concepts" and
Colorobbia's, just for my own curiosity. All have worked well either thinned
for a watercolor effect or used straight from the bottle. Mayco's product
has the one advantage of retaining an embossed effect when fired so I can
acheive some extra texture. I bisque fire at ^04 and have tried the products
on ^6 porcelain,stoneware and earthenware.
Nan Dufresne,in the woods near Marinette,WI. Feels like autumn is here
today, but only the sumac leaves are beginning to change color.
Eleanora Eden on fri 13 sep 96
On Tue, 10 Sep 1996, JoleeRene wrote:
> Does anyone know of a way to prevent the underglaze from being so quickly
> absorbed into the clay body? Thanks
I do my decorating on the greenware piece for this reason. I know it is
a drag to work on greenware but these underglaze paints are formulated
to be used on greenware and if you can get into the spirit I'm sure you
will find you have so much more control that it is worth the care.
At least give it a try!
Good luck with it.
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 firstname.lastname@example.org