LINDA BLOSSOM on sun 18 aug 96
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I can't believe it but I find myself disagreeing with you. I would never have
classified majolica as being only on the surface. That's the classification I
would use for china paints. Majolica is a decoration that becomes part of the
glaze- sinks in and stains the glaze. I don't know that low fire is a way to go
on a floor, if you want the design to go to grandchildren one day. I have
always fired majolica to cone 6, in a single fire.
Also, the practice of scoring the back of tiles. I have never done this and
prefer not to because it makes the front and back different and I feel that this
contributes to warping. If the tiles are flat, I stack them, pressing each one
gently into the stack, and put them in the sun or over the woodstove in the
winter. Then when the stack is dry, I pop it apart. I have even stacked low
relief tiles. I usually make larger, heavier relief panels that I just leave
uncovered until they are dry. If I see a suspicious corner, especially on a
triangular cut, I put a piece of brick on it. I do use a body with high grog
and fire it to the point where most warps are flattened out as it reaches
maturity. Warping has become a very minor concern since I got the clay body
right and handle the slab right. After it is rolled, I roll it with a large
rolling pin, smooth and compress it with a flat tool, such as a drywall
smoother, and flip it and repeat the process.
rdowns on wed 28 aug 96
At this point, I have to agree with Linda Blossom. The onglaze decoration
does go into the glaze. Look at Faience and Majolica tiles that are
centurys old, the decoration is still there. As for the textured back side
of the tiles. I have only been in the tile business for 3.5 years, but I
have many thousands of tile installed all over Dallas and the rest of the
country and all of them have smooth backs. I have installations both inside
and outside and in showers and have never had one come loose. I do not do
the installations, a professional tile installer does that. The lowfire
glaze is softer tho, so the higher fire the glaze, the harder the surface.
Someone else mentioned doing 300 tile and haveing a lot of varience in
size/shape, when you wait until they are leather hard to cut them, you are
inviting trouble! You don't know that each one is the exact same degree of
leather hard. The best way is to cut them right after you form the slab. I
have never tried sliceing from a block or pug of clay, but the process has
looked interesting to me and sometime (yea right! like I have time to do the
laundry lately!) when I have some spare time.
I am not trying to disagree with anyone, I have just made a LOT of tile
and these are the results that I have had.
Dianna Rose Downs '83 BMW R100RS
2517 Greenfield biker and potter
Princeton, TX 75407 mutually exclusive#@$!@#