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sana green glaze recipe cone 6?

updated mon 30 sep 96

 

Lee Sipe on sat 31 aug 96

Mish Lowe on IRC recommended a glaze named Sana Green . Does anyone have the
recipe for sana green glaze cone 6?

Thanks,

Lee Sipe

Michelle H. Lowe on sun 1 sep 96

At 8:37 PM 8/31/96 -0400, Lee Sipe wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Mish Lowe on IRC recommended a glaze named Sana Green . Does anyone have the
>recipe for sana green glaze cone 6?

That's me, here it is:

Sana's Green Cone 4-7
============
Ingredient Amt (g) Amt (%)
---------- ------- -------
Potash Feldspar 1200 29.12
Whiting 400 9.70
Colemanite 480 11.65
Barium Carb. 320 7.76 (I use Strontium Carb 5)
Magnesium Carb. 120 2.91
EPK 200 4.85
Silica 1280 31.06
Tin Oxide 120 2.91
---- ------
4120 99.96

Copper Carb. 200 4.85
Rutile 200 4.85
Bentonite 82 2.00


Mishy, glaze archive queen

Michelle Lowe, potter in the Phoenix desert \|/ |
mishlowe@indirect.com -O- | |
mishlowe@aztec.asu.edu /|\ | | |
|_|_|
http://www.amug.org/~mishlowe ____ |
-\ /-----|-----
( )
<__>

PJLewing@aol.com on tue 3 sep 96

Lee,
This Sana Green recipe was just recently on Clayart from someone. I
apologize for not remembering who put it on. I tried it and found it to be a
really nice satin finish soft yellowish green that fit my clay body very
well. It has a pretty low coefficient of expansion, and looks good, though
not as yellowish, without the rutile. I know this doesn't add up to 100, but
that's the way it was posted. Here it is.

Feldspar 24
Whiting 8
Gerstley Borate 9.6
Strontium Carb 6.4
Magnesium Carb 2.4
EPK Kaolin 4
Silica 25.6
Tin Oxide 2.4
Copper Carb 4
Rutile 4
Bentonite 1.6

Good Luck, Paul Lewing, Seattle
http://digitalfire.com/magic/lewing.htm

Richard Gralnik on tue 3 sep 96

Hi,

Sana's Green is actually a C10R recipe that I posted here a while back
because I was having pinhole problems with it. Tom Buck was kind enough
to reformulate it for me to balance out the chemistry, which was a big
help. Michelle took that recipe and adapted it to C6 (there was suspicion
all along that it was a C6 recipe originally) so you'll need to ask her
for her version of it. In the meantime, here's the C10R version that
Tom put together for me. I hope you like the results.

Richard
Los Angeles

----- Begin Included Message -----

From aa563@main.freenet.hamilton.on.ca Fri Jun 23 18:54:54 1995
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 1995 21:53:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Buck
To: rlg@desktalk.com
Subject: RECIPE: Cone 10 Sana's green
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Length: 1807

Well, Richard Gralnik, I have a revised glaze for you. But first let me
tell you a bit about your current recipe.
As you gave it, this glaze is a high "alkaline earth" glaze, a bit low in
alumina, but otherwise smack in the midfire range c4-c7. It's unusual in
the fact that it has 5.2% Titanium oxide and this will cause problems,
pinholing being one of them. The glaze is prone to pinholing because
there's too much carbonate in the raw materials. The COE at 7.2 is a bit
high but it could well fit a stoneware of 6.+ COE. Ok. Here's the new
version:

Sana's Green (revised for C10R)
===============================
G200 potash feldspar 265
Flint (silica) 250
Gerstley borate 180
Wollastonite 105
EPK kaolin 65
Strontium carbonate 55 (Barium Carb. 73.3)
Rutile frit grd 45
Talc (NY) 25
Bentonite 10
Copper carbonate 45
Tin oxide 30

This version closely matches the Unity Formula of your original. I have
switched to Wollastonite and Talc to reduce the carbonate level. You
could also use copper oxide black 40 units, or copper oxide red, 35 units
and reduce the carbonate a bit more but the copper oxides are very hard
to disperse and you may get speckling if you do not thoroughly screen the
mix. The gerstley borate is higher than I'd wish but if I use Ferro frit
3134 (or 3195) in its place the alumina goes up almost 50% and the KNaO
content goes up too, increasing the COE to 7.7 or higher; the glaze could
craze markedly. The best course would be to try this mix first and see if
it gives you the blue-green you want without pinholes. If out-gassing is
still a problem, then perhaps one could use half Gerstley B and half 3195.
I suggest, if this sits ok with you, that you go this route and see what
happens and only make a further revision if needed. TomBuck




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