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reduced lustre

updated wed 5 aug 98

 

Leonard Smith on sat 24 aug 96

I have just returned from a trip to the north of our state (NSW) and a vist
to many potters. One potter I spent some time with is Bob Connory of
Stokers Siding Pottery. Bob has been a studio potter for 30 years making a
living selling from a gallery connected to his studio. Over the last few
years, Bob an ex science teacher, has been experimenting with reduced
lustres. His recent show and lecture at the 8th national ceramic Conference
where real standouts. Bob is producing some really lovely effects.

Like most potters who explore an area like this, Bob had to do a lot of the
ground work himself but would like to see his knowledge and that of any one
else working in this facinating area made available to a wider audience. At
the conference Bob asked that all those working in the area form a contact
group with the ultimate aim of sharing information and eventually
publishing articles.

Bob asked me to ask anyone on Clayart who works with reduced lustres to
contact him and join the group. You can either email me with your address
and he will contact you or you can contact Bob direct at:

Bob Connory
Stokers Siding Pottery
Stokers Siding
2484 NSW
Australia

Note that reduced lustres are also known as Arabian lustres and are poduced
by reducing metal salts in a heavy reduceing atmosphere, they are not the
resinate lustres fired in electric kilns





Best wishes

Leo
who is making oval porcelain teapots, and is definitely mad!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Leonard Smith ARCADIA STUDIOS Email: smithl@ozemail.com.au

10 Marrakesh Place
Arcadia, 2159, NSW, Australia. Phone + 61 2 9653 2507
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
SEE OUR NEW WEBB SITE AT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~smithl/
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LINDA BLOSSOM on wed 28 aug 96


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Dear Leonard,

I would respond to you directly, rather than through the list, however, my
software is not getting an address for you. It was explained by a friend that
the software sends an alias, usually the sender's name and then stores the
address. This is ok when the mesage comes directly from the sender but when it
goes through a list, I find it impossible to email directly. Anyway, my first
question is to the rest of the list. Does this happen to the rest of you or is
it Microsoft Exchange causing this?

Second and the reason for writing you. I have been wanting for a while to
experiment with reduced lusters. If you have a few recipes and instructions for
a starting point, I would like to be part of this endeavor you spoke of. Also,
can you recommend any books. I previewed the book that is in the series "The
Complete Potter"? and found that the materials were all from England and
therefore I couldn't use the book. Thanks,

Linda Blossom
blossom@lightlink.com
Ithaca, NY
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Leonard Smith on mon 9 sep 96

>Dear Leonard,
>
>I would respond to you directly, rather than through the list, however, my
>software is not getting an address for you. It was explained by a friend that
>the software sends an alias, usually the sender's name and then stores the
>address. This is ok when the mesage comes directly from the sender but when it
>goes through a list, I find it impossible to email directly. Anyway, my first
>question is to the rest of the list. Does this happen to the rest of you or is
>it Microsoft Exchange causing this?
>
>Second and the reason for writing you. I have been wanting for a while to
>experiment with reduced lusters. If you have a few recipes and
>instructions for
>a starting point, I would like to be part of this endeavor you spoke of. Also,
>can you recommend any books. I previewed the book that is in the series "The
>Complete Potter"? and found that the materials were all from England and
>therefore I couldn't use the book. Thanks,
>
>Linda Blossom
>blossom@lightlink.com
>Ithaca, NY
>Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
>
>Attachment converted: Leonardo:Re- Reduced Lustre (????/----) (00002491)Orry

Sorry about the delay, I have been offline for about two weeks after a
storm took out our power and phone. Power for two days phone for overa
week.

I don't personally work with reduced lustre, but I believe a good starting
point is Alan Caiger-Smith's book Lustre Pottery. The book you mention
seems to have receipes that would work and you shoould be able to find
substitutions for the English materials.





Best wishes

Leo
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Leonard Smith ARCADIA STUDIOS Email: smithl@ozemail.com.au

10 Marrakesh Place
Arcadia, 2159, NSW, Australia. Phone + 61 2 9653 2507
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
SEE OUR NEW WEBB SITE AT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~smithl/
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

clifford on tue 4 aug 98

Hello Clayarters

I joined clayart only a few weeks ago and this is my first posting.
Already I have gleaned quite a few tips so I think I will really enjoy this
forum.
I am a solitary potter - teaching myself and experimenting via books and
journals ( being a librarian in an art library helps)
But what I really miss is feedback, so I have a few questions to pose.
My interest is with reduced lustres - both clay paste and inglaze and my
guide has been Margery Clintons book "Lustres" - an excellent book.
I do a third reduction firing in a gas kiln (680deg) and usually include
both inglaze and clay paste in the kiln.
I have had great success with a copper inglaze lustre, but the clay paste
has been less successful. From a copper paste I get a colour ranging from
pink to deep red, but no lustre and the tin glaze I use gets heavily greyed
from the reduction. Am I reducing too heavily?.
Although there are many variables to consider with this process , the first
one I want to address is the the reduction technique. This is the first
time I have fired a gas kiln in reduction ( bit scary after an electric
kiln) so I really don't have much of a clue about how to do it. To achieve
reduction I merely close the damper, for about 5 mins, then reoxidize for 10
- 20 mins. I do between 5 - 10 cycles .
Can anyone give me some hints on low temp reduction. I would like to get
this part right, before I start with the other variables ( there is a long
road ahead I know)

I would also love to connect with anyone else experimenting with reduced
lustres.

Julianne Clifford
Perth , Western Australia