David McBeth on mon 28 oct 96
I used to do a lot of raku. Many of the forms were large bulbous shapes.
I found that I could control the pattern of the crackle to some
considerable extent by how I brushed the glaze on the forms. When I
brushed the glaze on in a broad sweeping circular manner, I got a crackle
pattern that reflected that application process. The longer the brush
strokes the larger the crackle.
I hope this helps.
David McBeth, MFA
Associate Professor of Art
330C Gooch Hall
Division of Fine and Performing Arts
University of Tennessee at Martin
Martin, TN 38238
Fay & Ralph Loewenthal on wed 1 jan 97
John the easiest way to accentuate crackle is amke a solution of Manganese Dioxi
and water. Just put on everywhere and wipe the pot clean again. You will find th
MnO2 has stayed in the crackle. Good luck and all the best for the New Year. May
best of last year be worst of this year. Ralph in Port Elizabeth on a lovely sum
New Year's morning.
Arnolds Home Improvements on mon 29 jan 01
Does anyone have a good GB free white crackle glaze recipe for raku they
would be willing to share? I located one in the archives but could not get
it to act properly.
playing in the mud in North Carolina
Tom Buck on tue 30 jan 01
To make a good crackle just make sure you have a lot of Na2O and K2O in
the Seger formula, and low CaO, lots of B2O3. Some potters enhance the
crackle by carefully (very carefully!) misting the pot a small amount as
it moves from the
kiln to the smoking bucket.
Tom Buck ) tel: 905-389-2339
(westend Lake Ontario, province of Ontario, Canada).
mailing address: 373 East 43rd Street,
Hamilton ON L8T 3E1 Canada
Steve Mills on wed 31 jan 01
This is my basic glaze, matures around about 1000oC (I don't use
Pyrometers), VERY reliable, Crackles very well on my clays, I add all
sorts of different stuff to it!
85 parts by weight High Alkaline Fritt
15.................China Clay (kaolin)
For soft white add
5 percent Tin Oxide
In message , Arnolds Home Improvements writes
>Does anyone have a good GB free white crackle glaze recipe for raku they
>would be willing to share? I located one in the archives but could not ge=
>it to act properly.
>playing in the mud in North Carolina
Ababi on thu 1 feb 01
It is not that easy!
The most important thing is to have your high alkaline frit, low with
alumina, so you can play with kaolin to get suspension, and alumina level,
to get melting in the desired cone. (Smart?) Anyway I made many tests,
following Steve Mills as well as David Jones's Raku book,as well, as -
Inside pots I got good crackles from an alkaline frit with 8% alumina, but
good glossy all over, from the low alumina high alkaline +borax, frits.
Now when G.B. is gone, I can offer you, following our U.K.advisers: Buy some
make the following tests:
1) frit "A".........................100%
2)Frit A ...........................95%
Apply thin and thick!
In the end when you see the results you can adjust the amounts of
With Frit B, C, D, the same
You may have to add C.M.C If you succeed to make a glaze from only frit
If you succeed with several, keep them for interesting interactions between
* * * * * * * *
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Mills"
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: Raku Crackle
> This is my basic glaze, matures around about 1000oC (I don't use
> Pyrometers), VERY reliable, Crackles very well on my clays, I add all
> sorts of different stuff to it!
> 85 parts by weight High Alkaline Fritt
> 15.................China Clay (kaolin)
> For soft white add
> 5 percent Tin Oxide
> In message , Arnolds Home Improvements writes
> >Does anyone have a good GB free white crackle glaze recipe for raku they
> >would be willing to share? I located one in the archives but could not
> >it to act properly.
> >Gene Arnold
> >playing in the mud in North Carolina
> Steve Mills
> Send postings to firstname.lastname@example.org
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
ASHPOTS@AOL.COM on tue 13 feb 01
Rick, i was doing a lot of RAKU a while a go.I was using under glazes on the
outsides of pots like small bowls and covered jars. I wanted the crackle on
the white glaze but i didnt want to smoke the underglazes much.
When i pulled a pot from the kiln i would blow on the area i wanted to be
crackled. Of course these pots where not big. The bowls where 8 to 12
inches.I also had been doing a lot shell,wings and face impressions on the
pots where the underglaze was.I also used water in a small hand sprayer.
I was doing those pots before i started doing my ash glazes.I wanted all the
colors of the dry raku but didnt want the colors fading.
I still have a few of the pots i did and the colors or still wonderfull.The
crackles are still there also.
I fired one pot at a time,even if they were small. That way i could spend the
time with each pot, with blowing ,spraying and putting the sawdust where i
wanted it.It was NOT a high production operation.It took time. I also was
using cones and a digital pyrometer. I wanted some control
Lookout Mountain Ga
Steven Branfman on mon 9 dec 02
Elizabeth Herod wrote: <depended upon what kind of material you have in the trashcan, sawdust or
newspaper. I had always been told that it was the cooling, waving it around
before putting it in the can, or spritzing it with water. I can see that the
combustible creates the carbon that goes into the cracks but I didn't think
that it actually governed the amount of crackle.
Someone please explain this to me.>>
Elizabeth and other Friends,
Whew...................answers to simple questions should be kept simple. The
degree of crackle whether it be a white, blue, green, or orange glaze depends
on several things, the least of which is the kind of material that you use.
The most influential factor in developing crackle is the degree to which the
glaze shrinks more than the clay body. This can be intensified and
exaggerated by spraying the glazed surface with water or compressed air, or
by waving the piece in the air before placing the piece in your container w
ith the combustable material. At this point you must be certain that the
material ignites before closing the container. Though you may be successful
in producing the crackle, it is now up to your post firing reduction
technique to show that crackle by the penetration of the carbon into the
cracks. If you have allowed the glaze to cool TOO much then the post firing
will not be as effective. It is worth experimenting with different glazes to
find the one that has the most difference in shrinkage to your clay body.
Experiment also with glaze thickness and maturity.
mel jacobson on sat 4 jun 11
most of the frit 3134 base glazes will crackle big
time depending on how they are cooled. you add a touch of
feldspar/silica to toughen up the glaze. we call it `takihashi`.
(one of kurt wild's river falls students made this up way back in the 60's.
many now call it TAK.)
bob anderson times everything when we fire raku
at the farm. let the pots settle, and don't be in a big
rush to get them into the saw/dust/paper reduction.
often we will swing the pots in the air for a bit.
timing is everything with raku. often people get all in a rush...
make sure your glazes have settled nicely. then take them
out....air cool for a minute...then into the tight drums with
those clear glazes can be whitened up a bit with some
zircopax or tin.
i prefer total white and black raku.
i use the 4X porcelain slip over my dark red body.
of all the recipes out there for porcelain clay...slip...that
old alfred 4x in my view is the best.
makes a great slip.
easy to make.
one coffee can of epk, ball clay, feldspar and silica.
and, don't tell me it is not white...it is.
and it fires to cone 11 really well.
simplicity, what a concept. or, as i say...white is white.
from: minnetonka, mn
clayart link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
new book: http://www.21stcenturykilns.com
Lee on sun 5 jun 11
Tak Fat White Raku Glaze
Comments: A Kurt Wild glaze, it came from a student named Takahara.
Fat white, big crackle
Give it time to cool just a second/deep reduction
frit 3134 100
tin or opax 10 If you want a clear leave this out. Bentonite will help
Takes copper well: blue/green to red/blood .
Takes copper well
Leave out tin for clear
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue