Derek Johnson on tue 3 jun 97
I have a line on a very used Norman electric kiln (model N-7, phase 1,
220v, 150amp), but have been unable to find any information on Norman
and/or the kiln -- in order to make an intelligent offer on the kiln.
Has anyone heard of Norman (out of NY)?
Any help would be appreciated.
DeDe
Debby Grant on wed 4 jun 97
Norman Kiln Co. has been out of business for many years but they made
excellent kilns. I don't know what this particular model is like but you
should not have to pay very much for it because it is very hard to get
parts.
Debby Grant in NH
Cindy Morley on wed 6 aug 97
I have a question that you all might be able to help me with. I have the
oportunity to purchase a kiln, but I know pretty much nill about them.
The kiln is a Skutt 18x18X18 (inside) manual kiln, cone 6. It is in
supposidly good shape. The person bought it for $75 intending to resell
it and asked me what I would be willing to pay for it. What would you all
suggest? I need to get an answer to this person soon. Thanks!
Cindy Morley
cmorley@comp.uark.edu
Cheryl Fisher on sun 7 feb 99
I'm curious about a kiln and whhat price someone should get for it. A
kiln and many molds have been donated to Pet Placement here in town. Pet
placement helps homeless animals through various fundraisers, including
yard sales. The kiln is a Paragon and there were about 15-20 molds. The
person who donated it had originally tried to sell the whole package for
$500 through the newspaper and was unsuccessful. They claim it was at
least 10 years old. It says Paragon high-fire on it, but I couldn't find
the number. It was tied in the truck and molds were on top of it. It had
its books with it, and to me they look as if they were printed in the
late 70's maybe early 80's. I didn't see inside the kiln but the outside
seems to be okay. It's one piece, not 3 like my Olympic. One person is
saying they should get $300 for it (not inclufing the molds). I'm
guessing it's in the 2.95 cu. ft. range. Should they try to sell all
items together? Approximately what does anyone think it's worth. If they
sold the molds separate what would they get for the molds? I've never
used molds so I don't have any idea. If I find out more, I'll send more
information.
--
Cheryl F.
cafish@gte.net
Sarasota, FL
B. Tate on tue 20 apr 99
With regard to venting kilns. I have a 30amp Cress FX 23 below my condo in =
my
(solitary) parking garage that I have turned into a studio. The space is
enclosed except for one wall which is open to the outside (was the car =
entry).
There are no vents in the space and so I figured that the way the gases are
escaping is thru this entry.
Do you think there any way the fumes can seep thru the ceiling, insulation, =
and
floor of my condo?
Euclids on thu 22 apr 99
> With regard to venting kilns. I have a 30amp Cress FX 23 below my condo
in my
> (solitary) parking garage that I have turned into a studio. The space is
> enclosed except for one wall which is open to the outside (was the car
entry).
> There are no vents in the space and so I figured that the way the gases
are
> escaping is thru this entry.
>
> Do you think there any way the fumes can seep thru the ceiling,
insulation, and
> floor of my condo?
Hi,
It is unlikely, but there is a slight chance that the fumes could leak into
your condo, depending on the construction of the room. If the one wall is
completely open, most of the fumes will escape & venting may not be
necessary. A fan to direct the fumes toward the opening may be the best (&
cheapest) solution.
Chris @
Euclids Kilns & Elements
1-800-296-5456
euclids.com
mail@euclids.com
Barney Adams on mon 31 jul 00
Hi,
I'm looking into possibly buying a wooded lot in the area.
It's rural enough that I would be able to fire a kiln. I'd like
like to go with a wood/propane, but I think I need to do
more research. In the interim I was wondering if I could
try to fire a kiln based on the one in CM April 2000 issue
titled "Horn Island Kiln" by W. Lowell Baker. It's basically
3 55gal steel drums. Two stacked togeather as the stack and
the third is used as a firebox. I would in essence be doing the
same except dirt instead of the sand. Also if this illustrates the basic
principles
of a kiln then could I just duplicate this by cutting into a mound?
I understand this is that principle of simple concepts that are very
complicated to implement. Is most of the complexity due to building
the kiln for re-loadability?
I know. The books are all on order, but I'm thinking about this now.
Barney
Carrie or Peter Jacobson on wed 23 aug 00
Greetings,
I am still a fledgling potter, in need of information and direction.
I have only ever fired in oxidation, in a computer-controlled electric kiln,
at the community studio I managed in Connecticut. I liked the results I got
with a cone 6 porcelain and a collection of glazes I made. Bright colors
mostly, because that's what I like.
So now, we have moved to Maine, and I am slowly buying the things that once
were mine to use for free. I am contemplating kilns.
The one problem I have with electric kilns is that, generally, in the price
I can afford, or find used (cheap), the size of the kiln limits the size of
my work. I like to throw big.
But I am starting to wonder more about surface texture, levels of
vitrification and translucency, range of possible effect and other options.
It looks like I've found a 27 inch used Geil for $150. So I will have
something, albeit smaller than I would like, to start with. But from there,
what? Gas or wood? Homemade or bought? Updraft or downdraft? Or electric
after all?
I know that much of this all depends on what I want, where I want my art and
craft to go. Well, big and bright and not so shiny would be my answer.
Though I am not enamored with what I imagine to be the potterly end of the
color scale, the browns and greens, I do really like the warmth of
wood-fired pieces. But I am not sure if the tradeoff in work is worth it. I
understand that most wood-firing potters only fire a couple times a year...
as not so expert a potter, I need to fire more than that, to test and try
things and learn.
Also, what sort of aptitude does one need to build and/or operate a gas or
wood kiln? I am not so mechanically inclined, though I am reasonably
intelligent.
I would really like to hear folks' experience with the different firing
options, and why they've chosen what they've chosen.
Thanks,
Carrie Jacobson
Bolster's Mills, Maine
GURUSHAKTI@AOL.COM on wed 23 aug 00
Dear Carrie:
I built and fired my first gas kiln never having fired one before, nor having
seen one being fired, so it can be done. I got a plan for a nice twenty
something cubic foot downdraft from the Rhodes Kiln book and bit the bullet
and I had a great first firing. These days there is so much more information
out there. I would suggest you get Nils Lou's book of kiln firing. If you
want to build a kiln, find one that works and buy or beg the plans.
When I designed my wood kiln, I designed it to do everything --- fire all
wood, all gas, fire soda, etc.
If you think you might want to play with wood firing, why not built a single
bourry box, cross draft kiln that you can fire yourself and design it with a
place for one or two burners so you can fire it all wood, all gas or part
gas, part wood. You can use it for oxidation with the gas firing to get the
bright colors you want. The other way would be to get an electric kiln for
bisque and oxidation firings and build a small tunnel type wood kiln that
you can build in about three hours and fire in three to four hours. This type
of kiln is a small time and money investment and would satisfy your curiosity
and desire for wood without going into a big money and time investment. There
is plan for this kiln available on the web. I posted information about it in
the last few weeks. It would be in the clayart archives.
The kiln is made from firebricks and only a single brick thick. It defies
everything we know about kilns. It actually fires faster with the single hard
brick than when they built it with a two brick thick wall. It is a
puzzlement. :-) This little kiln is fired with wood in the early stages and
then you can switch to oil drip or gas later.
Since we retired, I'm down to my old Geil gas kiln and a tiny Aim electric
that I have rigged with a gas burner that I had Nils Lou build for me and I'm
planning (if their testing goes well), on buying one of the new Olympic
gas/electric kilns when they become available -- hopefully late winter, they
tell me. Also, this fall, I'm going to build one of the little wood/gas
combos I mentioned above and use that as a soda/salt kiln since my Geil
upward facing burners just can't take the soda/salt. The old fiber held up
well with the ITC 100 coating, but the burners rusted out in two firings!
Regards,
June
mel jacobson on wed 30 aug 00
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:36:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: lisa young
Subject: re:baileykiln
To: mel jacobson
:
:
:
I have a bailey 18/12 studio kiln which is very
consistent but difficult to get past cone 9 and half,
and difficult to get more than a trace of copper red.I
have tried many different firing schedules, with no
real change in result. The fuel is natural gas. Anyone
got any ideas?
thanks. Lisa Young
--- mel jacobson wg.
>
>
> clayart mail
> melpots2@pclink.com
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Louis H.. Katz on wed 30 aug 00
Lisa,
My understanding is that Bailey provides complete support for their kilns and
that you can call them up in the middle of a firing. If this is true, give it a
try. Other than that here are the only reasons I can think of:
You are reducing too hard.... If there is much soot collecting around spy holes or
other opening this could be true.
Your are oxidizing too hard...If there is no back pressure this could be true, if
you are getting all oxidation colors (other than the copper red) this is more
likely true.
You are not using enough gas. ..... If your gas supply is insufficient to the
kiln or the orifices too small..
You are not patient enough. Others may disagree, but if you are having trouble
finely tuning a kiln two hours a cone between cone 9-11 might be necessary.
Certain it Can be done in less time.
Louis
mel jacobson wrote:
> Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:36:57 -0700 (PDT)
> From: lisa young
> Subject: re:baileykiln
> To: mel jacobson
> :
> :
> :
>
> I have a bailey 18/12 studio kiln which is very
> consistent but difficult to get past cone 9 and half,
> and difficult to get more than a trace of copper red.I
> have tried many different firing schedules, with no
> real change in result. The fuel is natural gas. Anyone
> got any ideas?
> thanks. Lisa Young
> --- mel jacobson wg.
> >
> >
> > clayart mail
> > melpots2@pclink.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
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>
> FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
> http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
--
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NEW EMAIL ADDRESS Louis.Katz@mail.tamucc.edu
NCECA Director of Electronic Communication and Webmaster(Ad-Hoc)
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Marjorie Beynon on thu 31 aug 00
Suggest you read Pete Pinnell's article in Clay Times Nov/Dec 1998. In fact read
it a number of times. It's the Turbulence !! Have a bailey and using this article
as a guide - keeping blower flaps open ( 1/4 ") - start reduction at cone 010 - I
have had consistent good results. If you follow Pete's suggestions be watchful,
your kiln will probably get to cone 11. MB
mel jacobson wrote:
> Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 09:36:57 -0700 (PDT)
> From: lisa young
> Subject: re:baileykiln
> To: mel jacobson
> :
> :
> :
>
> I have a bailey 18/12 studio kiln which is very
> consistent but difficult to get past cone 9 and half,
> and difficult to get more than a trace of copper red.I
> have tried many different firing schedules, with no
> real change in result. The fuel is natural gas. Anyone
> got any ideas?
> thanks. Lisa Young
> --- mel jacobson wg.
> >
> >
> > clayart mail
> > melpots2@pclink.com
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
> http://mail.yahoo.com/
>
> FROM MINNETONKA, MINNESOTA, USA
> http://www.pclink.com/melpots (website)
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
WardBurner@AOL.COM on thu 31 aug 00
In a message dated 8/31/00 12:50:04 PM, WardBurner writes:
<< << I have a bailey 18/12 studio kiln which is very
> consistent but difficult to get past cone 9 and half,
> and difficult to get more than a trace of copper red.I
> have tried many different firing schedules, with no
> real change in result. The fuel is natural gas. Anyone
> got any ideas?
> thanks. Lisa Young >>
Oh, I've got plenty of ideas, but I'll need to ask you some
questions....Sounds as if you have the wrong size piping, or too long of a
run of pipe with too many elbows. Feel free to give me a call.
Marc Ward
Ward Burner Systems
PO Box 1086
Dandridge, TN 37725
865.397-2914 Voice
865.397-1253 Fax
wardburner@aol.com Email
wardburner.com Online Catalog >>
StarShip on sat 30 sep 00
I am looking for something to "cover" the inside top of my electric =
kiln. The brick is uncoated, and does not look as good as it could, and =
I am concerned about brick dust falling onto glazed articles.
Sammy J Shuford
Starship@cchat.com
--
Married 26 years and loving every minute!
--
Low Carbohydrate Forever!
--
Nanci Bishof on sun 1 oct 00
ITC 100 will seal the bricks.
nanci
Saralyn Lindsey on wed 4 apr 01
After just reading the list for quite awhile, I am now
rejoining hopefully better informed than before. In
the past year I have set up my own pottery workshop
for myself in my basement, adjusting the perimeter
again and again. I now have a Bailey wheel, that I
love, an extruder that I worship, and have now
included a Scutt 1227 kiln. I bought the kiln used and
after having an electrican come in for the
installation of the kiln and the envirovent,I am ready
to begin, I hope! My first question is if I am really
ready to begin? My kiln is in a corner of the
basement, about 20inches from each wall, and the walls
are cement along with a cement floor. Is there any
other protection that I should consider?
When I start to do my first firing, after firing with
the kiln empty, I have some thick, about 3/4 inch,
coiled planters, about 2ft high, that I want to bisque
fire along with some bowls, etc, that are much
thinner. Do I need to bisque them at different times,
temps, or can they all go in together? I have the
programable firing system, so can set it to anything,
right?
Any help to begin this exciting new venture would be
greatly appreciated as I look forward to this
adventure! Thanks in advance, Sandy Lindsey from
Mystic, CT where hopefully it will soon start to feel
like Spring!
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Diane Echlin on wed 4 apr 01
Hi Sandy,
My opinion is that you can bisque all your wares at the same time, regardless of
the differing wall thicknesses. I would caution you, however, to be absolutely
sure that everything is bone dry, and do a slow firing. Keep the lid propped open
slightly for the first couple hours to allow any residual moisture to escape more
easily.
It sounds like you have covered your bases as far as venting goes, but even with
the envirovent working, I would hesitate to be near the kiln when firing.
Good luck in your clay adventure!
Diane in (Guilford) CT
Saralyn Lindsey wrote:
> After just reading the list for quite awhile, I am now
> rejoining hopefully better informed than before. In
> the past year I have set up my own pottery workshop
> for myself in my basement, adjusting the perimeter
> again and again. I now have a Bailey wheel, that I
> love, an extruder that I worship, and have now
> included a Scutt 1227 kiln. I bought the kiln used and
> after having an electrican come in for the
> installation of the kiln and the envirovent,I am ready
> to begin, I hope! My first question is if I am really
> ready to begin? My kiln is in a corner of the
> basement, about 20inches from each wall, and the walls
> are cement along with a cement floor. Is there any
> other protection that I should consider?
>
> When I start to do my first firing, after firing with
> the kiln empty, I have some thick, about 3/4 inch,
> coiled planters, about 2ft high, that I want to bisque
> fire along with some bowls, etc, that are much
> thinner. Do I need to bisque them at different times,
> temps, or can they all go in together? I have the
> programable firing system, so can set it to anything,
> right?
>
> Any help to begin this exciting new venture would be
> greatly appreciated as I look forward to this
> adventure! Thanks in advance, Sandy Lindsey from
> Mystic, CT where hopefully it will soon start to feel
> like Spring!
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
Cindy Strnad on wed 4 apr 01
Hello, Sandy.
Congratulations on getting your studio all set up! When you do your first,
empty firing, don't fire completely empty. Set up shelves and place shelf
cones on them. Bottom, middle, top, and in several denominations. This will
give you an idea as to how accurate your controller is--whether it needs any
tweaking.
For your two-foot tall planters, I recommend a long soak at below boiling.
I've soaked large pots for as long as 6-8 hours. I don't know whether that
much time is really necessary, but you put so much work into them . . . .
This long soak won't hurt your thin-walled pieces, though they don't need
such careful treatment. For more on firing, please feel free to visit my web
page and click on the technical link (bottom of the left window).
Best wishes for a wonderful first firing,
Cindy Strnad
Earthen Vessels Pottery
RR 1, Box 51
Custer, SD 57730
USA
earthenv@gwtc.net
http://www.earthenvesselssd.com
jcullen on thu 5 apr 01
Saralyn, one thing missing from your kiln setup is some form of venting. I
believe that venting improves the firing and certainly improves your health
working in a confined space. Bailey carries a single kiln vent system for
$208. One could be built for considerable less if you're inclined to
do-it-yourself.
Any fumes released from firing will travel through your entire house. Your
furnace system will suck the fumes up and evenly distribute them for you.
No problem bisquing big, small, thick, thin at the same time. Fill 'er up.
Just don't pile the big, thick on top of the small, thin. That's not good!
Good luck.
"Beautiful young people are acts of nature,
but beautiful old people are works of art."
KEEP CENTERED
Cullen
Naperville, Illinois
mail to: jcullen845@ameritech.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Saralyn Lindsey"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 6:54 AM
Subject: Kiln Question
> After just reading the list for quite awhile, I am now
> rejoining hopefully better informed than before. In
> the past year I have set up my own pottery workshop
> for myself in my basement, adjusting the perimeter
> again and again. I now have a Bailey wheel, that I
> love, an extruder that I worship, and have now
> included a Scutt 1227 kiln. I bought the kiln used and
> after having an electrican come in for the
> installation of the kiln and the envirovent,I am ready
> to begin, I hope! My first question is if I am really
> ready to begin? My kiln is in a corner of the
> basement, about 20inches from each wall, and the walls
> are cement along with a cement floor. Is there any
> other protection that I should consider?
>
> When I start to do my first firing, after firing with
> the kiln empty, I have some thick, about 3/4 inch,
> coiled planters, about 2ft high, that I want to bisque
> fire along with some bowls, etc, that are much
> thinner. Do I need to bisque them at different times,
> temps, or can they all go in together? I have the
> programable firing system, so can set it to anything,
> right?
>
> Any help to begin this exciting new venture would be
> greatly appreciated as I look forward to this
> adventure! Thanks in advance, Sandy Lindsey from
> Mystic, CT where hopefully it will soon start to feel
> like Spring!
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________
__
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
Tamara Williams on tue 2 oct 01
Hi everyone.. I have some kiln concerns.. I have a studio space that's about 300 sq ft in an old tobacco warehouse (I live in the south =)) The studio is in the middle of the building and does not have a window.. It does have the proper voltage nearby and 1 brick wall.. It also has an open ceiling meaning the walls only go up to 9 feet and the ceiling is 11 feet.. Now my concern is this.. is there enough space for ventilation in this type of space? heat rises so I'm not going to be blown out of my own studio am I? I have the ok by the Art Center Director to put one in...
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Tamara
m markey on tue 2 oct 01
Hi Tamara!
No, you won't be blown up (unless you regularly use explosives)by your
electric kiln, but the fumes from your glazes and clays may be hazardous to
your health.
I recommend that you purchase a kiln ventilator, which either sucks or blows
the kiln emissions out of the building, via a metal ceiling/roof chimney, or
a coorugated metal tube that can be used for blowing emissions out of a
window. There are several models and types to choose from. Your kiln
manufacturer may have one that fits your kiln.
Be sure to check your local building codes and air pollution
standards--failure to do so might cost you $$$ in fines, in some
communities.
Best wishes!
Mohabee Nakedclay@hotmail.com
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Brant Palley NMCLAY.com on wed 3 oct 01
We stumbled along for all these years without kiln vents, and most of us
survived. You have (as some wise person said) a great tool on your face,
your nose! If you put in a kiln and you fire it, and it does not offend
you, then all is good. If you choke and cough, buy a vent system. Exhaust
it through the roof if you have to. If you use high barium or lead glazes
be more careful,if not, enjoy your creativity, trust your nose.
Rebecca P on sat 12 oct 02
Hi all!
Newbie question. I have a very small kiln (Skutt 614-3) - I call it R2D2.
I am making a gift for my son-in-law. I forgot to take into account the
size of the kiln, Duh! This kiln has electric coils on the sides but NOT on
the bottom. It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do it? If so, it
should shrink enough that I should have no problem fitting it for the glaze
firing. My other alternative is to have it bisque fired at the community
studio where the time of firing cannot be predicted and the gift will be
late. (Yes, I waited until the last minute) Thanks so much!
Cheers,
Rebecca Pierre
Oak Island, NC - where the "..bridge, suspended between mainland and island,
holds memories of the roads that brought us here. Makes a promise of blue
sea wedged between trees, in the distance ahead."
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Snail Scott on sat 12 oct 02
At 05:10 PM 10/12/02 -0400, you wrote:
>It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
>firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
>bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do it?
Been there, done that! It'll be fine. -Snail
Marianne Lombardo on sat 12 oct 02
Hi Rebecca;
It's perfectly okay to place the piece on the bottom of the kiln. I do that
all the time for bisque firings. Not for glaze firings because it's too
hard to scrape off drips.
Marianne Lombardo
Omemee, Ontario, Canada
email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
> size of the kiln, Duh! This kiln has electric coils on the sides but NOT
on
> the bottom. It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
> firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
> bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do it? If so,
it
Jose A. Velez on sun 13 oct 02
----- Original Message -----
> It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
> firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
> bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem>
Rebecca:
You sure can. I do fire my kiln without a shelf at the bottom and have not
noticed any ill effects. Good luck.
Jose A. Velez
Carol Tripp on mon 14 oct 02
Hi Rebecca,
Yes, you can bisque fire it directly on the bottom of the kiln and in case
it doesn't shrink enough, glaze it and fire it on a "cookie" on the bottom
of the kiln. A cookie is a very thin flat slab of clay that catches drips.
Make a few and bisque fire them. I use them under all my glaze test tiles.
Best regards,
Carol
Rebecca wrote, in part:
I have a very small kiln (Skutt 614-3) - I call it
>R2D2.
>I am making a gift for my son-in-law. I forgot to take into account the
>size of the kiln, Duh! This kiln has electric coils on the sides but NOT
>on
>the bottom. It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for the bisque
>firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting directly on the
>bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do it? If so, it
>should shrink enough that I should have no problem fitting it for the glaze
>firing.
"Success is going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm."
Churchill
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Arnold Howard on mon 14 oct 02
Removing the bottom shelf from your kiln may actually improve heat
distribution to the bottom. The shelf is a large ceramic mass that
absorbs energy.
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, Inc.
--- Marianne Lombardo wrote:
> Hi Rebecca;
>
> It's perfectly okay to place the piece on the bottom of the kiln.
> I do that
> all the time for bisque firings. Not for glaze firings because
> it's too
> hard to scrape off drips.
>
> Marianne Lombardo
> Omemee, Ontario, Canada
> email: mlombardo@nexicom.net
>
> > size of the kiln, Duh! This kiln has electric coils on the
> sides but NOT
> on
> > the bottom. It looks like I can fit the piece in the kiln for
> the bisque
> > firing if I take out the bottom shelf and fire it sitting
> directly on the
> > bottom of the kiln. Would this be a problem? Is it OK to do
> it? If so,
> it
>
>
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bluefirepottery on mon 26 mar 07
Hi guys:
This is a question for anyone who has built a brick kiln and fires to =
high temps. I am perplexed. When I built the kiln I cut bricks to =
brick up the door and all of the brick fit with a smidge of room for =
easy placement. At the second firing, none of the bricks fit--all had =
to have some shaved off of one end to fit. Third firing--same thing. =
Fourth firing--again, the bricks didn't fit and had to have their ends =
shaved off. Now here is the weird part, the top row of bricks for the =
door were 1 inch splits which fit with room to spare for the first =
firing. At the second firing, there was not 1 inch at the top to fit =
them in so I filled the gap with fiber. AT the third firing the 1 inch =
splits fit on either side, but not in the center. For the fourth =
firing, they all fit again!!!! Obviously either the kiln or the door =
bricks or all of the above are changing shape with each firing. Any =
experience with this? Any explanations? I am most curious about this =
phenomena. The kiln is a wood fired Minnesota Flat top.=20
Each firing has been different. Yesterday's firing was balky and smokey =
and I had trouble reaching temperature. The best firings seem to be on =
windy days.
Debra Cobbeldick
Blue Fire Pottery
http://cobbeldick.aftosawebhosting.com/
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzes4z8v/
Michael Wendt on fri 29 feb 08
Loren,
The easy way to constrict the inlet on the secondary
air is to make some sliding shutters that you can
adjust to make the inlet around the burner port
smaller.
Ideally, you would make all four the same so you
could adjust all of them exactly the same to see
what happens. The method would be to make
small incremental changes with each load until you
get the desired result. I think you could even design
them to close completely at the end of the firing
to clam the kiln up tight and really slow the cooling
rate.
The design could look something like this:
http://www.wendtpottery.com/clayart.htm
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Wendt Pottery
2729 Clearwater Ave.
Lewiston, Id 83501
U.S.A.
208-746-3724
wendtpot@lewiston.com
http://www.wendtpottery.com
http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com
Loren JOnes on fri 29 feb 08
I have another question- or two- for all of you. I have many years of experience firing a couple of kilns with power burners. I have gotten great results out of these kilns for years. Well, now I am firing a small 12 cubic foot downdraft kiln with 4 venturi burners coming in through the floor. This kiln has some problems. First off the burner manufacturer calls for port openings of 2.5" and this kiln has 3.5" openings. When you put this kiln into reduction the bottom heats up and the top stalls. This than leaves you trying yo play catch up. Could all of that excess oxygen cause this? We have four 40,000 btu burners set to 2.5" wci and the damper at 2.5" this appears to produce a good reduction but when you open the kiln it is mostly oxidized on the bottom. Sometimes you can get good carbon trap shinos down there but I wouldnt put my celedons down there. Is this all confusing enough? Can anybody comment on this? I feel that there must be better ways to
fire this for more consistant results. Loren Jones
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Edouard Bastarache Inc. on sat 1 mar 08
Michael,
if the stack had been built with a "loose brick",
it may have solved the problem by removing
the loose brick.
The chimney would then suck in room air
and reduce the draw. It is a trick I learned
many years ago.
If the draw is to much reduced, you can
reduce the effect by replacing the brick by a
soap brick or any other piece of refractory
material smaller than the hole caused by the
removal of the full-sized brick.
When it is windy enough, I fire the entire day
with the loose brick removed.
Gis la revido,
(A la revoyure)
Edouard Bastarache
Spertesperantisto
Sorel-Tracy
Quebec
http://www.pshcanada.com/Toxicology.htm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30058682@N00/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/potier/20321056/
http://perso.orange.fr/smart2000/livres.htm
http://myblogsmesblogs.blogspot.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wendt"
To:
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: kiln question
> Loren,
> The easy way to constrict the inlet on the
> secondary
> air is to make some sliding shutters that you
> can
> adjust to make the inlet around the burner port
> smaller.
> Ideally, you would make all four the same so you
> could adjust all of them exactly the same to see
> what happens. The method would be to make
> small incremental changes with each load until
> you
> get the desired result. I think you could even
> design
> them to close completely at the end of the
> firing
> to clam the kiln up tight and really slow the
> cooling
> rate.
> The design could look something like this:
> http://www.wendtpottery.com/clayart.htm
> Regards,
> Michael Wendt
> Wendt Pottery
> 2729 Clearwater Ave.
> Lewiston, Id 83501
> U.S.A.
> 208-746-3724
> wendtpot@lewiston.com
> http://www.wendtpottery.com
> http://UniquePorcelainDesigns.com
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Clayart members may send postings to:
> clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list, post
> messages, change your
> subscription settings or unsubscribe/leave the
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>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots2@visi.com
>
>
>
> --
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Ivor and Olive Lewis on sat 1 mar 08
Dear Loren JOnes ,
When I built my own kiln I oversized the port openings in the hearth of =
the kiln. This allowed an excess of air preventing good reducing =
conditions.
I solved the problem by inserting a ring of ceramic fibre as a liner in =
each of the ports. When you have tested the effect this can be cemented =
in place with Sodium Silicate.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis.
Redhill,
South Australia.
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