MS NANCY PARKER on wed 28 may 97
We just fired our Minnesota flat top for the first time and before we
fired it we sprayed our shelves with ITC 100. When we removed some
plates we fired the bottoms were black and the shelves they sat on
had a white/gray stain on them. Could this be a problem with the ITC
100 or are we looking at some other problem. Any suggestions or
comments on what went wrong would be appreciated.
Nancy Parker
Sheila Clennell on thu 29 may 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>We just fired our Minnesota flat top for the first time and before we
>fired it we sprayed our shelves with ITC 100. When we removed some
>plates we fired the bottoms were black and the shelves they sat on
>had a white/gray stain on them. Could this be a problem with the ITC
>100 or are we looking at some other problem. Any suggestions or
>comments on what went wrong would be appreciated.
>Nancy Parker
Dear Nancy:My thoughts on the gray stain on your ITC coated kiln are
these. I think you have reduced your kiln quite heavily and the black
footring is the result of black coring. The carbon could not pentetrate
the ITC 100 since it is a highly reflective material and has consequently
remained as a stain on the kiln shelf. This is not a chemical problem and
will disappear in the next firing if air passes over the surface. This
could also be be a symtom of the ITC not being thoroughly dry and no air
moving over the surface of the kiln shelf. I assure you all is well and
that the stain will disappear next firing.
Most owners of Minnesota flat top kilns use atmospheric burners which don't
create the turbulence of a burner with fan. Air movement is therefore only
from the draw of the stack. Maybe a good oxidizing or cleaning up at the
end of the firing might clean up the surface of your clay. Mind you there
will still be black coring inside the clay walls. Heavily reduced pots are
not as strong! Someting to think about if you are a kitchen ware potter.
Good luck with your firings!
Long may your chimney smoke!
Tony Clennell
Potter
Sheila and Tony Clennell
Gleason Brook Pottery
Box l0, RR#2,
Wiarton, Ontario
NOH 2TO
Canada
Phone # 1 (519) 534-2935
Fax # 1 (519) 534-0602
E-mail clennell@bmts.com
Sheila Clennell on sat 31 may 97
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>We just fired our Minnesota flat top for the first time and before we
>fired it we sprayed our shelves with ITC 100. When we removed some
>plates we fired the bottoms were black and the shelves they sat on
>had a white/gray stain on them. Could this be a problem with the ITC
>100 or are we looking at some other problem. Any suggestions or
>comments on what went wrong would be appreciated.
>Nancy Parker
Nancy: I just had a call from my buddy Ron Roy saying maybe I was hasty in
my answer to you about your problem. I should have asked some questions
of your question. Was it just certain pots with specific glazes etc etc??
Tell us more and we'll get to the root of the problem. Ron is the problem
solver. I call him the man with the ceramic brain. I just make pots, don't
know the science , just know I'm happy when it all works and bitchy when
it's doesn't.
One last question- was the ITC dry or wet?? This is neat, I feel like Peter
Faulk. Rest assured the stain will likely go the way of the DOO-DOO bird
next firing.
Pots for the people!
Cheers,
Tony Clennell
Potter
Sheila and Tony Clennell
Gleason Brook Pottery
Box l0, RR#2,
Wiarton, Ontario
NOH 2TO
Canada
Phone # 1 (519) 534-2935
Fax # 1 (519) 534-0602
E-mail clennell@bmts.com
Saralyn Lindsey on tue 27 apr 99
Hi all,
I read the responses for cracks/fill with great anticipation since I
have had a similar problem with large coiled pots I made to use for my
house plants. I don't want to throw them out, since it took so long to
make them large. I also thought I had taken care of the potential
problem of cracks by letting these pots dry slowly, over a couple of
months, with plastic cover. However, when bisque fired, both developed
large cracks in the bottom. The bottoms were made from slabs, the rest
coiled, using a white stoneware.
To remedy these cracks, I would like to use mel's problem solver of
using "itc 100", however, would someone please tell me what that is?
After reading about how easy it seemed to use, I eagerly looked it up
in my Baileys' catalog, then went to several others I have, but without
success. ITC 100 wasn't listed. I would like to know what it is, i.e.
what does itc stand for, and where I could buy it.
On that same vein, another question pops out, does re/bisque cause any
other problems, like new cracks or something, hope not!
Thanks for any help, Sandy Lindsey in Mystic, CT
_________________________________________________________
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Pamala Browne on thu 29 apr 99
Where exactly do your coil built pots crack?If on the bottom,where on the
bottom?Are they shearing or is it a stress crack?
----- Original Message -----
From: Saralyn Lindsey
To:
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 7:26 AM
Subject: itc 100
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Hi all,
> I read the responses for cracks/fill with great anticipation since I
> have had a similar problem with large coiled pots I made to use for my
> house plants. I don't want to throw them out, since it took so long to
> make them large. I also thought I had taken care of the potential
> problem of cracks by letting these pots dry slowly, over a couple of
> months, with plastic cover. However, when bisque fired, both developed
> large cracks in the bottom. The bottoms were made from slabs, the rest
> coiled, using a white stoneware.
>
> To remedy these cracks, I would like to use mel's problem solver of
> using "itc 100", however, would someone please tell me what that is?
> After reading about how easy it seemed to use, I eagerly looked it up
> in my Baileys' catalog, then went to several others I have, but without
> success. ITC 100 wasn't listed. I would like to know what it is, i.e.
> what does itc stand for, and where I could buy it.
>
> On that same vein, another question pops out, does re/bisque cause any
> other problems, like new cracks or something, hope not!
>
> Thanks for any help, Sandy Lindsey in Mystic, CT
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Saralyn Lindsey on mon 3 may 99
Hi, I looked at my coiled pots to make sure where the cracks in the
bottom were. One is a long thin curve from one side to another. That
was the pot that I let dry for over 2 months, but still cracked. The
other one I did let dry too fast and the crack is much wider, but
again, across the bottom. Does this tell you anything? Hopefully it
does since I don't know how to remedy this probelm. Thank you for your
input. Sandy Lindsey in Mystic, CT
--- Pamala Browne wrote:
> ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> Where exactly do your coil built pots crack?If on
> the bottom,where on the
> bottom?Are they shearing or is it a stress crack?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Saralyn Lindsey
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 7:26 AM
> Subject: itc 100
>
>
> > ----------------------------Original
> message----------------------------
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I read the responses for cracks/fill with great
> anticipation since I
> > have had a similar problem with large coiled pots
> I made to use for my
> > house plants. I don't want to throw them out,
> since it took so long to
> > make them large. I also thought I had taken care
> of the potential
> > problem of cracks by letting these pots dry
> slowly, over a couple of
> > months, with plastic cover. However, when bisque
> fired, both developed
> > large cracks in the bottom. The bottoms were made
> from slabs, the rest
> > coiled, using a white stoneware.
> >
> > To remedy these cracks, I would like to use mel's
> problem solver of
> > using "itc 100", however, would someone please
> tell me what that is?
> > After reading about how easy it seemed to use, I
> eagerly looked it up
> > in my Baileys' catalog, then went to several
> others I have, but without
> > success. ITC 100 wasn't listed. I would like to
> know what it is, i.e.
> > what does itc stand for, and where I could buy it.
> >
> > On that same vein, another question pops out, does
> re/bisque cause any
> > other problems, like new cracks or something, hope
> not!
> >
> > Thanks for any help, Sandy Lindsey in Mystic, CT
> >
> _________________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get your free @yahoo.com address at
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
>
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Pamala Browne on mon 10 may 99
saralyn did you ever get my return message to you?? Something was sent back
to me and I dont know what it was--it said you didnt have a yahoo account
and therefore couldnt deliver. Will try again.
----- Original Message -----
From: Saralyn Lindsey
To:
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: itc 100
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
> Hi, I looked at my coiled pots to make sure where the cracks in the
> bottom were. One is a long thin curve from one side to another. That
> was the pot that I let dry for over 2 months, but still cracked. The
> other one I did let dry too fast and the crack is much wider, but
> again, across the bottom. Does this tell you anything? Hopefully it
> does since I don't know how to remedy this probelm. Thank you for your
> input. Sandy Lindsey in Mystic, CT
> --- Pamala Browne wrote:
> > ----------------------------Original
> > message----------------------------
> > Where exactly do your coil built pots crack?If on
> > the bottom,where on the
> > bottom?Are they shearing or is it a stress crack?
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Saralyn Lindsey
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 7:26 AM
> > Subject: itc 100
> >
> >
> > > ----------------------------Original
> > message----------------------------
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > > I read the responses for cracks/fill with great
> > anticipation since I
> > > have had a similar problem with large coiled pots
> > I made to use for my
> > > house plants. I don't want to throw them out,
> > since it took so long to
> > > make them large. I also thought I had taken care
> > of the potential
> > > problem of cracks by letting these pots dry
> > slowly, over a couple of
> > > months, with plastic cover. However, when bisque
> > fired, both developed
> > > large cracks in the bottom. The bottoms were made
> > from slabs, the rest
> > > coiled, using a white stoneware.
> > >
> > > To remedy these cracks, I would like to use mel's
> > problem solver of
> > > using "itc 100", however, would someone please
> > tell me what that is?
> > > After reading about how easy it seemed to use, I
> > eagerly looked it up
> > > in my Baileys' catalog, then went to several
> > others I have, but without
> > > success. ITC 100 wasn't listed. I would like to
> > know what it is, i.e.
> > > what does itc stand for, and where I could buy it.
> > >
> > > On that same vein, another question pops out, does
> > re/bisque cause any
> > > other problems, like new cracks or something, hope
> > not!
> > >
> > > Thanks for any help, Sandy Lindsey in Mystic, CT
> > >
> > _________________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Get your free @yahoo.com address at
> > http://mail.yahoo.com
> > >
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
Bonnie Staffel on tue 11 may 99
May 10, 1999
You are correct in finding that drying is the problem but you did not
say how you were drying as far as the bottom is concerned. It is
important that you do one of two things. Place your pot on a plaster
bat or drywall slab or place your pot on a wire rack so that the drying
can be accomplished without drafts over the entire pot. The bottom is
drying slower than the sides, thus the bottom has no where to go but to
crack.
The same thing occurs in the firing. You should raise the bottom off
the shelf by using bisque shards so that the heat can get to the bottom
of the pot at the same rate as the sides. If your bottom slab is
thicker than the coils, then it is even more important to get it to dry
a little faster than the walls.
Try this and see if it works. I have done this for years and do not
have any cracking.
Bonnie Staffel.
Randy McCall on fri 23 jul 04
I just got in some ITC 100 to use on an old skutt 1027 when I can =
install the elements.
Any special comments on the ITC 100 and installing elements. The =
elements came from skutt.
I have been reading about the screw down connectors. Are these called =
split bolt connectors or is that something different. What are the =
connectors made of from the hardware?
Appreciate any suggestions or details.
Randy McCall
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