Linda Burns on tue 25 feb 97
Hi....thanks for all the great info regarding molds....it helped a lot.....
now for my next question::::::
I'm interested in creating a wall tile collage with various glazes that do
not touch each other. I have seen tiles with pictures using glazes, with a
fine definitive line that separates the glazes to make the scene........Is
this done with wax resist, or is there some other tool that is used?
Thanks for your help.....
Linda
Marcia Selsor on wed 26 feb 97
Those lines are "coer de seco" made with axel grease and manganese. You
can get pretty heavy glaze that won't cross that line.
Marci in Montana
Linda Burns wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi....thanks for all the great info regarding molds....it helped a lot.....
> now for my next question::::::
>
> I'm interested in creating a wall tile collage with various glazes that do
> not touch each other. I have seen tiles with pictures using glazes, with a
> fine definitive line that separates the glazes to make the scene........Is
> this done with wax resist, or is there some other tool that is used?
>
> Thanks for your help.....
>
> Linda
--
Marcia Selsor
http://www.imt.net/~mjbmls/
mjbmls@imt.net
Bruce Lenore on wed 26 feb 97
hi linda, without seeing the tiles i can only surmise what was used. A
thin line made with a eedle tool makes a good barrier ,and careful
application will allow glazes to stay seperate. Wax can be used but
can be messy, liquid latex works very well and can be removed before
firing, and lastly i have used very fine tape from a graphic arts
supplier (1/16" to keep glaze lines crisp. I would be happy to discuss
this more if you would like. stxnstnz@edgenet.net. Good luck with
your project.. Bruce
Ernesto Burciaga on wed 26 feb 97
Linda
Somewere in my youth......I think the fine seperating line is an iron
oxide stain. The stain I used wouldn't allow a glaze to run over or
stick to those areas. I know a tile person who is working in this
fashion. If you don't get a good answer from some one on the list.
Write and I woll ask the friend.
Ernesto Burciaga
eburciag@rt66.com
Marget and Peter Lippincott on wed 26 feb 97
Linda Burns wrote:
I have seen tiles with pictures using glazes, with a
> fine definitive line that separates the glazes to make the scene........Is
> this done with wax resist, or is there some other tool that is used?
>
> Thanks for your help.....
>
> Linda
If the dividing line is black, it may be a product called "Glazeline"
available from Axner, pricey stuff. It is essentially a resist that
leaves behind a black stain. Two for the price of one. If the line is
clay body colored, then well there's your answer, just regular resist.
Peter
The Mudpuppy
Vince Pitelka on thu 27 feb 97
>If the dividing line is black, it may be a product called "Glazeline"
>available from Axner, pricey stuff. It is essentially a resist that
>leaves behind a black stain.
Take some wax resist. Mix black underglaze into it. Voila. Experiment
with proportions.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Phone - home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801
Appalachian Center for Crafts
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Eleanora Eden on mon 3 mar 97
Hi All,
I don't know if Vince has tried his "add black to wax" idea but, as many
will remember, I wasted alot of time going this way awhile back.
Here's the scoop as I experienced it:
Glazeline (which, BTW, comes in blue and green as well as black) works
GREAT when (a) used to separate different glazes (which is what it's made
for) or (b) to separate underglazes before a bisc where clear will cover
Glazeline too but only on flat surfaces (like tiles) as otherwise the
glazeline will run under the glaze.
I tried mixing various blacks with wax and found that if I used a brush
to apply it the black wasn't black enough or if enough black was used the
wax failed to resist. When I used a squeeze bottle to apply the
wax/black combo the result was awful, the volume of the line produced
threadlike ribbons of black which usually didn't stay put.
So if Vince has made this idea work I would really like to hear the
particulars. And if I was trying to separate glazes on tiles I would
definitely consider Glazeline worth the investment.
Eleanora...usual disclaimers
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@maple.sover.net
[the address fga@world.std.com is temporary. My mailbox at
eden@maple.sover.net still works -- do not change address books]
Vince Pitelka on tue 4 mar 97
At 09:40 AM 3/3/97 -0500, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi All,
>
>I don't know if Vince has tried his "add black to wax" idea but, as many
>will remember, I wasted alot of time going this way awhile back.
I would not suggest a technique which I have not myself tried. I was using
Duncan cobalt crystal black, which is pretty intensely pigmented. I was not
going for a jet black line, and this worked well, when the underglaze was
mixed with undiluted wax resist. I am sorry, but I do not remember the
exact proportions, or the particular wax resist I used. I have also used
Mason 6600 best black and a little 3134 frit mixed with parafin and a little
kerosene. This resisted glaze even better than the conventional wax resist.
Just a note of caution - if you use a parafin/kerosene mix, be sure to hook
up a fume hood above your wax pot - the fumes are very toxic.
- Vince
>
>Here's the scoop as I experienced it:
>
>Glazeline (which, BTW, comes in blue and green as well as black) works
>GREAT when (a) used to separate different glazes (which is what it's made
>for) or (b) to separate underglazes before a bisc where clear will cover
>Glazeline too but only on flat surfaces (like tiles) as otherwise the
>glazeline will run under the glaze.
>
>I tried mixing various blacks with wax and found that if I used a brush
>to apply it the black wasn't black enough or if enough black was used the
>wax failed to resist. When I used a squeeze bottle to apply the
>wax/black combo the result was awful, the volume of the line produced
>threadlike ribbons of black which usually didn't stay put.
>
>So if Vince has made this idea work I would really like to hear the
>particulars. And if I was trying to separate glazes on tiles I would
>definitely consider Glazeline worth the investment.
>
>Eleanora...usual disclaimers
>
>
>Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
>Paradise Hill
>Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@maple.sover.net
>
>[the address fga@world.std.com is temporary. My mailbox at
>eden@maple.sover.net still works -- do not change address books]
>
Eleanora Eden on wed 5 mar 97
Hi Vince and all,
Vince, thanks for the information. This parafin/kerosene thing sounds
like it could be dangerous if not done properly and I would appreciate it
if you would clarify this further for us all, including some kind of
ball-park estimates of amounts.
> Mason 6600 best black and a little 3134 frit mixed with parafin and a little
> kerosene. This resisted glaze even better than the conventional wax resist.
>
> Just a note of caution - if you use a parafin/kerosene mix, be sure to hook
> up a fume hood above your wax pot - the fumes are very toxic.
> - Vince
TIA
Eleanora
Eleanora Eden 802 869-2003
Paradise Hill
Bellows Falls, VT 05101 eden@maple.sover.net
[the address fga@world.std.com is temporary. My mailbox at
eden@maple.sover.net still works -- do not change address books]
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