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^6 glaze info needed

updated tue 30 sep 97

 

sharonc on fri 9 may 97



----------
From: sharonc
To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
Subject:
Date: Tuesday, May 06, 1997 12:58 PM

Hi, I'm new to Clayart and fairly new to potting. I like throwing
stoneware (functional pieces, so far) and interested in the application of
glazes. I've been having problems with the glaze running right off the pot
(and onto the shelf). I do not run the kiln, nor do I mix glazes. This
job is carried out by one studio person. I know there is a lot to be
learned regarding glazes and would appreciate any suggestions of where to
start learning. I do have one guideline - ^6 bisque and ^6 glaze firing
in electric kiln. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Sharon

Rick Swenson on sat 10 may 97

>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>
>
>----------
>From: sharonc
>To: CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU
>Subject:
>Date: Tuesday, May 06, 1997 12:58 PM
>
>Hi, I'm new to Clayart and fairly new to potting. I like throwing
>stoneware (functional pieces, so far) and interested in the application of
>glazes. I've been having problems with the glaze running right off the pot
>(and onto the shelf). I do not run the kiln, nor do I mix glazes. This
>job is carried out by one studio person. I know there is a lot to be
>learned regarding glazes and would appreciate any suggestions of where to
>start learning. I do have one guideline - ^6 bisque and ^6 glaze firing
>in electric kiln. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Sharon


Just a thought to start with...glaze should be about the thickness of a
playing card...I was told...once a long time ago. There are some
variations to this maxim...but a good place to start if the glazes are
"running off the pots'...the glaze is applied tooooo thickly ...ie....
if you have mixed it very well and there is no packed down material at the
bottom of the bucket....thin it down a bit with water.

For instance... I used the method of dipping my hand in the glaze and if I
can still see hair on the back of my hand ...and it LOOKS right to me...for
that glaze....then I know I have it right. That will only work for you
after you have determined YOUR particular methods of "knowing your glazes".

There is no one completely correct foolproof method to cover all glazes
with all clay bodies. There is a difference in hold much water the glaze
has in it if your wares are bisque (biscuit) fired...or not...soft bisqued
or hard bisqued....

You can also use a couple lab devices...a flow-meter cup and / a specific
gravity (hydrometer) which will...after some base line info....ie
testing....tell you when the amount of water is "just right".

Experience will be your best teacher. Be patient and record results so you
can repeat success and not repeat defeat.

It is not Magic...or rocket science...just trial and error and a few little
tricks you will pick up along the way....

IMHO

Ric

**********************************************************
Ric Swenson, Bennington College, Route 67-A Bennington, Vermont
05201-6001 ph 802 442-5401 x 262 fax x 237 (dedicated line for direct
fax 802 442-6164) email: rswenson@bennington.edu

NOTE: opinions expressed are my own, not necessarily those of my employer.
**********************************************************

Karen Gringhuis on thu 4 sep 97


Dear Sharon - Cleaning up e-mail, I find your letter which I saved.
And I wonder - did you get some info as to where to start learning
about glazes. Are you still interested? I don't recall if I
ever answered you or not. If you still would like suggestions,
write & tell me of your progress & what I might do to help.

You remind me of me in 1984 - I know how much there is to learn
(but it can be simplified) and how rewarding & FUN FUN FUN it
can be to explore. One of my studio mates & I spent an hour
recently pondering why some purple Mason stains come out blue.
I've hung out w/ a master teacher here so I have lots of ideas
about what people need to know & how to organize it.

IMHO (NO, I don't mean to sound superior!) part of the problem
is that a lot of people out there don't know a lot about
glazes - so they don't teach it very well.

Let me know if I can help. Karen Gringhuis

Emily Muench on sun 7 sep 97

Dear Karen
I would like to know if you have a recipe for a successful clear glossy glaze
that purple mason stains can be used with? The stain I have says no zinc but
at least 12-15% whiting. I haven't been able to find a glaze that has that
much whiting......what other chemical can I reduce the quanity of in order to
increase the whiting?? Am I confusing you?

Cindy on tue 9 sep 97

Emily,

You might want to try Tony Hansen's ^6 glaze article on the Insight page.
I'm not sure of the address just now, but you can find it via Ceramics Web
if you look. Or, he might see this, and, being a nice guy, post you the
address. It doesn't have any whiting, but I believe it does have the
chemicals you need to make your Mason stain work.

Cindy

----------

> Dear Karen
> I would like to know if you have a recipe for a successful clear glossy
glaze
> that purple mason stains can be used with? The stain I have says no zinc
but
> at least 12-15% whiting. I haven't been able to find a glaze that has
that
> much whiting......what other chemical can I reduce the quanity of in
order to
> increase the whiting?? Am I confusing you?

Andrew & Laura Conley on wed 10 sep 97

(I thought I sent this, but it hasn't come through yet - sorry if it
arrives twice)

In order for the mason stains to retain color, there must be enough
calcium in the
glaze. The whiting has the calcium and can be replaced with any other
ingredient, in
the appropriate quantity, that will have as much calcium.

This is a recipe for a ^6 glossy glaze that is good with mason stains.
I believe the
recipe was developed (or at least modified) by Rick Shanks at the OCC
studio. In this glaze, the wollastonite and frit 3134 provide calcium.

ball clay 650
wollastonite 1105
pytotrol 1950
custer feldspar 845
frit 3134 1885
calcined alumina 65

the recipe then has a total of 10% stain added

The calcined alumina ideally should be mixed in a blender with water and
sieved
through 200 mesh first.

The OCC studio is BIG. This recipe makes half a bucket - pull out that
calculator!

Laura


Emily Muench wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Dear Karen
> I would like to know if you have a recipe for a successful clear glossy glaze
> that purple mason stains can be used with? The stain I have says no zinc but
> at least 12-15% whiting. I haven't been able to find a glaze that has that
> much whiting......what other chemical can I reduce the quanity of in order to
> increase the whiting?? Am I confusing you?